’Nashville’ TV show fans will love real Music City
In this Jan. 15, 2014 photo made with a fisheye lens, people leaveTootsie's Orchid Lounge in Nashville, Tenn. Tourists and locals flock to the row of honky tonks on lower Broadway. (AP Photo/Mark Humphrey)
This Jan. 15, 2014 photo shows people listening to a band in Tootsie's Orchid Lounge in Nashville, Tenn. Tourists and locals flock to the row of honky tonks on lower Broadway. (AP Photo/Mark Humphrey)
This Jan. 15, 2014 photo shows the house used as the home of Deacon Claybourne, played by Charles Esten, on the television show "Nashville" in Nashville, Tenn. (AP Photo/Mark Humphrey)
This Jan. 15, 2014 photo shows the Ryman Auditorium in Nashville, Tenn. The wood floors and pews of the former tabernacle make it one of the best venues anywhere for hearing music. The small size also makes it one of the best for seeing performances. (AP Photo/Mark Humphrey)
This Jan. 15, 2014 photo shows people walking past a row of bars on lower Broadway in Nashville, Tenn. Live music can be heard every night of the week in the street's honky-tonks and bars. (AP Photo/Mark Humphrey)
Being a little bit more rock ‘n’ roll than country, I had never considered putting a country-fried city like Nashville on my travel bucket list. Yet here I was, standing in a strip mall parking lot in Music City on a chilly Sunday afternoon, outside The Bluebird Cafe.
In a half-hour period, four cars had pulled up so a passenger could snap a photo of the trademark blue awning. “It’s closed? I don’t understand. I thought they filmed here,” said one young woman before getting a picture and driving away. The Bluebird is an often-used setting in ABC’s Nashville drama. Although the show films in a replica on a soundstage, that hasn’t stopped fans from visiting the real space.
The Bluebird is one of several places that has gotten a Hollywood bump from the show, which stars Connie Britton and Hayden Panettiere as country music superstars. As I became addicted to the show, I began to notice how much of a star the city was. Actors would stroll along the impressive Shelby Street Pedestrian Bridge. The Nashville skyline seemed even more twinkly and inviting framed by the Cumberland River. It also appeared that concerts and club performances were being filmed in actual venues. The number of these venues seemed endless.
So, I followed my inner fan-girl and decided to see Music City for myself. A tour company offers a Nashville-centric bus tour. But I opted to use a list from the city’s tourism website to go at my own pace. While I never had anyone utter the words “hey y’all” to me, I was elated to find that, like the show, there’s music all around.
The “Mother Church of Country Music” was built in 1892 in what would become downtown Nashville by businessman Thomas Ryman as a venue for evangelist Sam Jones. From 1943 to 1974, it was the home of the Grand Ole Opry, the long-running, weekly radio showcase made up of a variety of big-name and smaller country acts.
A National Historic Landmark, the Ryman is open for tours. Costumes, programs and other memorabilia tied to performers such as Hank Williams, Minnie Pearl and Roy Acuff are prominently displayed on the first and second floors.
Today, the Ryman only hosts the Grand Ole Opry between November and January. With the acoustics and the crescent arc to the pew seating, it’s hard to find a bad seat. You never know who’ll be playing. In a happy coincidence, Nashville actor Jonathan Jackson, who plays musician Avery Barkley, was on the line-up the day I went. In fact, most of the show’s cast has performed with the Opry since becoming part of the Nashville scene.
Honky Tonk Highway
Tourists and locals flock to the row of bars and clubs, or “honky tonks,” on Broadway in downtown Nashville. It’s a buffet of bars that continuously hums with live music. Sidewalk musicians whose bread and butter is singing for tips are out there all day. The signage on the entire row is lit up in neon at night, an often-used exterior shot on the show. Nashville has also filmed inside some of the bars, including Layla’s Bluegrass Inn and Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge. Established in 1960, Tootsie’s is the crown jewel of Honky Tonk Highway. Country artists such as Kris Kristofferson and Willie Nelson played there early in their careers.
It’s not clear on TV’s Nashville that these clubs are actually on the same block. The incredible access to so much live music packed into just a few blocks is not a phenomenon found in every city. You can have your pick of several club performances going on all at once. It’s worth walking up and down the street, which on weekend nights can be as chaotic as New Orleans’s Bourbon Street – but minus the beads.
A cultural institution in the country music industry, The Bluebird Cafe’s location close to a McDonald’s will probably take Nashville viewers by surprise.
For songwriters and singers, playing for the 100-seat room is a rite of passage. It’s a tight squeeze but the feeling of intimacy is one of the cafe’s main draws.
Reservations for shows are only available online a few days in advance and sell out quickly. Some shows are free (with the purchase of drinks or food) on a first-come-first-serve basis.
To further enhance my Nashville experience, I crossed the Cumberland River to the hipster-haven of East Nashville. The east side is a vibrant hodgepodge of families, artists and musicians. The show has also filmed around this part of town – with good reason. There are numerous restaurants, coffeehouses and clubs worth patronizing.
The 5 Spot, a laid-back club where “Monday is still the new Friday,” draws guys in T-shirts and baseball caps as well as guys with fedoras. Jackson’s character filmed performances here during the first season.
TV geeks such as myself will get a kick out of stopping in the Historic Edgefield neighborhood. There, you will find the craftsman house with a stone veneer that serves as the home of guitarist Deacon (Charles Esten). Reel-life secret: While Deacon and his niece, Scarlett (Clare Bowen), lived in different parts of town in the first season, their “homes” are actually next door to each other.
Abigail Humphrey, who lives on the other side of “Deacon’s house,” calls the periodic filming a “minor inconvenience.” She says she also doesn’t mind when tour groups show up.
“It’s fun to get a little bit of credit to this area,” Humphrey says.
She applauds the show for putting down roots in Nashville. “It definitely makes the show feel more real.”