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Food

Lean year for New England cod ahead as shutdown looms

Sunday, April 26, 2015

Catch limits set to take effect this week will take a bite out of an industry that dates back to America’s colonial past: New England cod. The stricter quota on cod taken from the Gulf of Maine – a 75 percent cut from the current year – will also affect the catch of other similar fish, meaning New England fishermen and seafood dealers expect a year of meager supply and …

Simple guide for mastering salmon seasonality

Wednesday, April 22, 2015

Add salmon to the long list of foods Americans have mostly lost touch with in terms of seasonality. It’s an understandable lapse. After all, salmon certainly seems to be available all year. And indeed, farmed Atlantic salmon is available fresh all year. Even wild species are available pretty much whenever a hankering strikes, …

Coho

Wednesday, April 22, 2015

Coho, also known as “silver” salmon for its bright silver sides, offers a lighter, more distinctly flavored fish than king or sockeye. Coho’s orange-red flesh is moderately fatty and flakes well. “For fresh, it’s great to just think about what’s coming out of the garden,” says Laura Cole, owner and executive chef at …

Sockeye

Wednesday, April 22, 2015

Sockeye, also called red salmon, is known for its distinct, bright red flesh, which retains its color even once cooked. It is prized for its firm, fatty meat and its pronounced, yet versatile flavor. Though less buttery than …

King

Wednesday, April 22, 2015

King salmon, also known by its Native American name “chinook,” earns the title. The largest of the Pacific salmon, a single king can weigh more than 100 pounds, though typically they’re landed at 20 to 30 pounds. King …

Pink

Wednesday, April 22, 2015

With a delicate flavor, rosy pink flesh and a texture similar to trout, pink salmon offers a blank canvas for sauces and other flavorings. Pink salmon is extremely lean, with soft meat and a small flake. “We got …

Keta salmon

Wednesday, April 22, 2015

Keta salmon, also called chum, has pale orange, red or pink flesh and a pronounced flavor. These characteristics make keta a favorite for drying and smoking as well as for chowders and curries. Chum has a lower oil …

A quiet start to syrup season

Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Things were quiet at Sunnyside Maples in Loudon on Feb. 17. Temperatures hadn’t been above freezing in days, so sap was not running yet. Owner Mike Moore had the finishing pan of his evaporator disassembled for repairs and …

Hillary Nelson: With help of foil, flavors pick up steam

Tuesday, April 21, 2015

Cooking inside tightly sealed aluminum foil packets infuses the flavor of herbs and spices deep into vegetables, meats and fish in a way that almost no other method of cooking can achieve. Why? When an aluminum packet is …

Canadian shrimp imports up as Maine fishery remains closed

Sunday, April 19, 2015

Maine fishmonger Glen Libby made a disheartening discovery on Easter Sunday brunch – the cold-water shrimp on the menu at a restaurant up the street from his fish market were from Canada, not New England. Canadian imports of …

Consumers buying more organic products, despite high prices

Wednesday, April 15, 2015

The higher price of organic foods and other products doesn’t seem to be deterring consumers: Sales jumped 11 percent last year, an industry report says. Sales of organics have been rapidly growing since the United States put strict …

West Coast sardine collapse leads to fishing closure

Tuesday, April 14, 2015

Fisheries managers have decided to call off the West Coast sardine fishing season that starts in July because of rapidly dwindling numbers, hoping to save an iconic industry from the kind of collapse that hit in the 1940s and lasted 50 years. Meeting outside Santa Rosa, Calif., the …

In chef Bryan Voltaggio’s new cookbook, there’s lots of flavor

Tuesday, April 14, 2015

These are not the hasty weeknight pastas and stir-fries of your kitchen and mine. In his new book, Home: Recipes to Cook With Family and Friends, with Aki Kamozawa, Washington, D.C.-area chef-restaurateur Bryan Voltaggio concentrates on weekend brunches, …