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Adapted from “Vibrant Food: Celebrating the Ingredients, Recipes, and Colors of Each Season,” by Kimberley Hasselbrink (Ten Speed Press, 2014).

Summer Squash Pasta With Green Goddess Dressing. Illustrates ONTHEFRIDGE (category d), by Bonnie S. Benwick (c) 2014, The Washington Post. Moved Monday, July 21, 2014. (MUST CREDIT: Photo for The Washington Post by Deb Lindsey)

Summer Squash Pasta With Green Goddess Dressing. Illustrates ONTHEFRIDGE (category d), by Bonnie S. Benwick (c) 2014, The Washington Post. Moved Monday, July 21, 2014. (MUST CREDIT: Photo for The Washington Post by Deb Lindsey)

This is a noodly tangle you can feel good about serving. Zucchini and yellow squash yield nicely after a salt session. Then they’re dressed with a yogurt-based riff on a 90-year-old French recipe.

Serve with avocado slices and fresh salsa.

Summer Squash Pasta With Green Goddess Dressing

2 medium zucchini

2 yellow squash

1 teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more for serving

leaves from 1 or 2 large stems fresh basil

leaves from 2 to 4 stems flat-leaf parsley

leaves from 2 or 3 stems tarragon

about 15 chives

1 small clove garlic

1 anchovy

half a lemon

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup plain yogurt

1/4 cup raw pine nuts

freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Trim the ends of the zucchini and squash. Cut the vegetables into very thin strips; you can use a julienne vegetable peeler or a serrated knife. Place the strips into a colander set in the sink. Sprinkle with the teaspoon of salt, and toss to distribute. Let the vegetables sit for 15 minutes while you make the sauce.

Coarsely chop the basil (reserving a few leaves for garnish), parsley, tarragon and chives (to taste). Coarsely chop the garlic and the anchovy. Transfer the herbs, garlic and anchovies to a food processor or blender as you work. Squeeze in 2 tablespoons of juice from the lemon half (avoid pits); process until finely chopped. Add the vinegar, oil, yogurt and pine nuts. Season lightly with the pepper. Puree until smooth, then taste and add salt and pepper as needed. Transfer three-quarters of the dressing to a mixing bowl.

Gently squeeze moisture from the squash. Pat dry with paper towels, then add the squash to the dressing in the bowl. Toss gently to coat. Taste again, and adjust the seasoning as needed.

Divide among individual plates. Scatter some of the cheese over each portion, and garnish with a few basil leaves. Serve right away.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

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