Mole’s layered flavors come from first bringing out the best in each ingredient on its own, then blending and simmering them in a balanced, smooth, silky sauce.
Complicated as it may seem – and there are a lot of steps – you can nail mole on the first try without stressing if you break it down into its components and understand how they all come together. First, steep a stock of herbs, spices and Mexican chocolate; then toast and fry other components; then bring it all together.
The recipe that follows is adapted from Christy Lujan of CaCao Mexicatessen. Dried Black Mission figs lend a deep red wine-like sweetness to a mole Poblano-style base.
Simmered ingredients
2 dried bay leaves
1 canela stick
1¾ teaspoons whole allspice berries
1¼ teaspoons whole black peppercorns
½ teaspoon whole cloves
1 two-inch sprig rosemary
2 sprigs thyme
1 ounce Mexican chocolate, preferably La Soledad
Toasted ingredients
6 tablespoons unsalted peanuts
2 tablespoons raw almonds
6 tablespoons white sesame seeds
½ cup animal crackers, preferably Mexican animalitos
2 cups dried Black Mission figs
¼ cup raisins
1 teaspoon canola or vegetable oil
2½ ounces dried negro chiles (about 7), stems and seeds removed
2½ ounces dried ancho chiles (about 5), stems and seeds removed
¾ ounce dried pasilla de Oaxaca chiles or chipotle chiles with seeds (about 2), stems removed
2 tablespoons dried arbol chiles with seeds (about 8), stems removed
Fried ingredients
1 cup canola or vegetable oil
1 small white onion, coarsely chopped
8 large garlic cloves, peeled
1 day-old yellow corn tortilla
½ cup stale bread cubes
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons kosher salt
Prepare the simmered ingredients: Combine the bay leaves, canela, allspice, peppercorns, cloves, rosemary, thyme and chocolate with 2½ cups cold water in a large pot. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring to melt the chocolate and prevent it from scorching, then remove from the heat and let steep until ready to use.
Meanwhile, prepare the toasted ingredients: Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add the peanuts and toast, tossing continuously, until dark golden brown in spots, two to three minutes. Transfer to the pot. Repeat with the almonds, toasting for one to two minutes, then the sesame seeds, toasting for one to two minutes.
Spread the animal crackers in the skillet and toast, turning occasionally, until dark brown in spots, one to two minutes. Transfer to the pot, then wipe the skillet clean. Add the figs, turning occasionally, until softened and blistered in spots, two to three minutes. Transfer to the pot. Repeat with the raisins, stirring for one minute. Rinse out the skillet to remove any residual sugar and wipe dry.
Set the skillet over medium heat again and add the oil. When it shimmers, swirl to coat the bottom of the pan and add the negro chiles. Toast, turning often, until soft and paler in spots (don’t let them blacken), two to three minutes. Transfer to the pot. Repeat with the ancho, pasilla and arbol chiles, and keep the skillet on the stove.
Prepare the fried ingredients: Fill the skillet with the oil. Heat over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onion and fry, stirring occasionally, until very dark brown, about 15 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to the pot. Add the garlic to the oil and fry, turning occasionally, until deep golden, about two minutes. Transfer to the pot with the slotted spoon.
Add the tortilla and fry, turning occasionally, until dark and crisp, one to two minutes. Use tongs to transfer to the pot. Repeat with the bread, frying until brown and crunchy like croutons, about 30 seconds. Add the salt to the pot after the bread goes in, along with 6 cups water, and stir well to combine. Pour the frying oil through a fine-mesh sieve into a liquid measuring cup and reserve.
Puree the mole: Working in batches, transfer the mole mixture to a blender and puree until smooth, scraping the bowl as needed. The spices and herbs may not break down completely. Pour and push the puree through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing on the solids to extract as much sauce as possible.
Fry the sauce: Pour the reserved strained canola oil into a large, deep stockpot and heat over medium-high heat until shimmering. Carefully and quickly pour in the mole sauce at arms’ length to avoid burning yourself. Immediately turn off the heat and let stand until the bubbling subsides. The oil and sauce will splatter violently; the hard-fried flavor is an important element of the sauce.
Stir the sauce well and bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring often. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring often for the first 30 minutes, being careful to not let the mole scorch at the bottom of the pot. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasonings if needed. Continue simmering over low heat, stirring occasionally, for two hours. Remove from the heat and let stand for five minutes. Skim off any oil that has accumulated on the surface. Fold in meat or vegetables.