Once again, traffic on Route 106 is impacted by construction. The ever-popular signs announcing “Be Prepared to Stop,” “Work Zone” and “Lane Shift Ahead” announce delays for commuters. The road work is necessary to improve safety at the intersection of Route 106 with Chichester Road. Drivers might grumble and grow exasperated, but here is a reason to make another choice.
As a regular commuter of all 10.8 miles of this stretch of road that navigates through Loudon, I’m reminded that Route 106 can also be thought of as a timeline through Loudon’s history. It’s a major route that is studded with historical landmarks. Rather than grow frustrated with road delays, enjoy a “then versus now” perspective of this well-traveled corridor.
In history, right at the southern border with Concord, on the easterly side of Route 106 was the Jones Charcoal Kiln. Built in 1870, Josiah Jones would load the conical shape structure with wood, strike a match to light a fire and then maneuver bricks to control the draft. After two weeks, he would have charcoal to sell to his customers in the city. His grandsons, Charlie and William, continued to make charcoal there until it ceased operation in 1928. St. Paul’s School was their biggest customer. Despite a gallant attempt to save the kiln, it was dismantled in 1963 to make way for Route 106 construction.
Continuing north to the intersection with Route 129, at the stop light, take a minute to notice the traffic sign in place that marks the turn to Loudon Village. In history, this area was called Loudon Mills. Jethro Bachelder harnessed the water power of the Soucook River to power his sawmill and gristmill here in 1764. There’s a wooden sign owned by the Gilmanton Historical Society still showing a turn for Loudon Mills. At this intersection drivers can also catch a glance of the rooftop of the Maxfield Public Library established in 1909. On opening day, a quartet of Shaker singers offered their musical talents to the festivities.
The next landmark on our south-to-north route through Loudon occurs around the five-mile mark where there is a state historical marker for Shaker Village. During the infant stages of the New Hampshire Shaker movement, Loudon was the site of some early Shaker meetings.
Israel Chauncey and Ebenezer Cooley, early Shaker evangelists, gave a sermon in Loudon’s
town meeting house in 1782 — 10 years before Shaker Village was established in Canterbury.
At the six-mile mark from the southern boundary, where Bright Farms Greenhouses are located, with a glance to the east you will notice the homes on the highest point of land. One is a stately old Loudon home, built in colonial times and lovingly restored by a former owner. The other was a summer boarding house in the early 1900s, operating under the name of Grand View House. According to an ad from 1895, one vacation week in the summer back then would cost you $5 per week where you could enjoy a broad piazza, good table and daily mail.
Travel two more miles and you’re at the NH Motor Speedway. Keith Bryar owned this land and first used it to house his sled dogs. Eventually, he built the Bryar Motorsport Park. Bryar’s track attracted top racers and was a hub of activity. Locals would race stockcars around the five-eighths of a mile oval every Wednesday and Saturday night from April through October. Spectators packed the bleachers to cheer for their favorites and see if all drivers could avoid the infield pond.
Also at mile eight, Route 106 leaves Loudon and runs through nearly two miles of Canterbury (a good place to mention that Loudon was formerly part of Canterbury). Royal Governor John Wentworth signed the incorporation papers to create Loudon in 1773. Loudon’s northernmost section of Route 106 parallels Rocky Pond.
Here we should recall a report tied to the 1938 Hurricane. When the catastrophic winds swept across New Hampshire 88 years ago, white pine trees snapped like matchsticks. Thomas King, an agent with the NH Department of Forestry wrote in his report, “It is estimated that approximately 40% of all blown down timber in New England is located here in New Hampshire.” A coordinated response was needed, requiring many hours of manpower to clean up the downed trees and salvage the wood. Soon after this September weather event, the federal government formed the Northeast Timber Salvage Association. This organization oversaw both wet and dry sites to process the timber. To protect the wood from blue stains and insects, many logs were submerged into surrounding lakes. A number of logs were sunk into the depths of Rocky Pond. According to the Northeast Timber Salvage Administration, the trees submerged in Rocky Pond yielded 621 board feet of lumber.
This major route through Loudon was completed in stages. For many years, Route 106 ran straight through Loudon Village. The old road saw heavy traffic from motorcycles, recreation vehicles and even a restored Concord Coach. In 1974, a restored Concord Coach navigated parts of the old road on its way back to the Wayside Inn in Sudbury, Mass. Ed Rowse, a Loudon resident, completed the job in his garage workshop. He had developed quite a business restoring old coaches. Rowse was a founding member of the Concord Coach Society formed in 1977. He wrote a book titled “Concord’s Waggon Men” in 1979. The restored Concord Coach from the Wayside Inn attracted the attention of Governor Meldrim Thomson. The weekend before the coach left for Sudbury, the Governor and his wife rode out to Loudon, sat in the restored coach and admired Rowse’s craftsmanship. When Monday rolled around, the coach set off for its four day trip with Alan Thompson as the teamster and Leslie Ford as the relief driver.
Melissa Moore authored Loudon’s town history book titled “Land of Low Hills,” which includes over 100 historic photos and multiple interviews with residents. The paperback book is available for purchase online at Gibson’s Bookstore and Windswept Maples Farm in Loudon. Copies may also be purchased at the Loudon Town Offices and the Loudon Historical Society.