Franklin recognizes the Asian-Jewish fusion restaurant that reflects the city’s evolution

  • Miriam Kovacs, who opened the Broken Spoon fusion restaurant on Main Street in Franklin in November 2020 in the teeth of the pandemic. GEOFF FORESTER / Monitor staff

  • Miriam Kovacs, who opened the Broken Spoon fusion restaurant on Mian Street in Franklin in November 2020 in the teeth of the pandemic. GEOFF FORESTER—Monitor staff

  • Miriam Kovacs, who opened the Broken Spoon fusion restaurant on Mian Street in Franklin in November 2020 in the teeth of the pandemic. GEOFF FORESTER—Monitor staff

  • Miriam Kovacs opened the Broken Spoon fusion restaurant on Main Street in Franklin in November 2020, among several new business ventures in New Hampshire’s Mill City. GEOFF FORESTER / Monitor staff

  • “Where’s the Boofalo” Bao Special with grass-fed skirt steak, blue cheese dressing, hybrid hot sauce, celery and carrots on a steamed bun. Courtesy of Broken Spoon

Monitor staff
Published: 6/28/2022 4:59:46 PM

When you run one of the region’s most unusual restaurants, with an Asian-Jewish-Hungarian fusion menu, you’re ready to serve everything from mushrooms to bone broth to pork belly bao bun. From time to time, Miriam Kovacs goes completely off the rails.

“Sometimes I incorporate Velveeta!” said Kovacs, who opened the Broken Spoon restaurant in Franklin in November 2020 in the teeth of the pandemic. “Hey, embrace it all! Our country is a melting pot of cultures … why not? It’s American food.”

Broken Spoon will be getting a belated official ribbon-cutting on Wednesday, June 29, at 11 a.m., celebrating it as part of the changes sweeping downtown Franklin. Kovacs said she’s happy for the ceremony because it will give her a picture to send to her mother, but isn’t planning any changes.

Broken Spoon is take-out only due to difficulty in finding staff as well as concerns about the lingering pandemic. “COVID is still very present. I can’t afford to get COVID here,  my whole business would go down,” said Kovacs.

Both chef and owner, Kovacs is a first-generation American; her mother is from Sri Lanka and her father is Jewish, from Hungary. She grew up with culinary traditions from many places that she has incorporated into Broken Spoon’s menu, which features pork belly in various forms, the steamed buns known as bao, meat skewers of many types and ramen bowls with ingredients like seaweed chiffonade and marinated wild mushrooms. It even has an unusual take on that all-American meal of peanut butter and jelly.

Kovacs, who has a history as a cook and chef including studying at the Culinary Institute of America, came to Franklin from New Jersey for personal reasons, and stayed partly because it was affordable. She had been developing plans for a restaurant and jumped at the chance to move into a former restaurant space at 416 Central St. That made it possible to open Broken Spoon, she said, because there was already a hood system installed, saving many thousands of dollars in opening costs.

Kovacs said business has been “steady and growing,” perhaps fueled by people’s desire for something new after the constraints of the pandemic. “People travel here from all over,” she said.

The Broken Spoon is one of a number of new businesses that have opened or are planning to open soon in Franklin, spurred largely by the attention drawn to Mill City Park, New England’s first public whitewater park on the Winnipesaukee River. 


David Brooks bio photo

David Brooks is a reporter and the writer of the sci/tech column Granite Geek and blog granitegeek.org, as well as moderator of Science Cafe Concord events. After obtaining a bachelor’s degree in mathematics he became a newspaperman, working in Virginia and Tennessee before spending 28 years at the Nashua Telegraph . He joined the Monitor in 2015.



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